Stage 5 The Frame component B
We now need to visit how far down to mount the drive axle to create the frame level. So raise the rear in the frame up until the superior of the frame is level with all the ground (use your level). Now measure the length from the top-rear in the frame to the floor, this is the body height.
Now we need to take into account the height that that wheels will raise the axle up. So measure the distance from the biggest market of the rear drive wheel into the ground (the wheel's radius). Subtract the wheel radius in the frame height and we'll have the correct distance in the top of the frame into the drive axle, which we'll call the frame-riser height (we must cut these pieces next). They will connect the rear in the frame down to the axle that your wheels will be installed on.
6. We are gonna add 2' to the frame-riser measurement (so we have nema 23 stepper motor a little to operate with) and cut the actual 2 frame risers (mine were being about 10-12' long).
SEVERAL. Now drill (2) 5/8' divots, 1 at the bottom of each one frame riser (about 1' in the bottom), this is where the drive axle will endure.
8. Drill 2 holes in the top and bolt the frame risers into the rear of the main-rectangular frame with all the frame-risers pointed down.
9. Now feed the threaded-rod in the bottom holes of the frame risers and use nema 23 stepper motor 4 nuts to secure the frame risers into the drive axle (1 nut on each side of each one frame riser, tightened down).
TWELVE. put the rear wheels to the axle and use ONE more nut on every single wheel to secure them into the axle (these wheels have built in bearings). The sprockets must face inward toward this frame.
Now we really should have a frame that appears on it's own along with 4 wheels. However, the rear axle is not completely secure yet. We will likely need to add 2 braces in the bottom of the shape risers (near the axle) into the main part of the frame in order to keep the frame risers inserted properly. These braces can end up being flat steel and need not be very thick, they are just keeping the body risers from moving.
Determine about 2' above every axle and drill any hole, then measure the time down that hole is in the top-rear of the frame and measure a stepper motor similar distance from the rear of the frame toward the entrance. Drill another hole about each side at this particular measurement. The support braces will likely need to be measured to possibly be bolted in through these types of holes on each aspect (see pictures). The keeping the support braces is actually less important, meaning you can bolt them in exactly where is convenient, as long as they quite simply are present.

Step 6TH Mounting the motors
I thought this was the most difficult part to map out on the frame. We need the motors that they are adjustable so we can certainly adjust the tension in the chain, however they please take 4 holes in the bottom of each motor and also nobody makes a mounting plate i always could find.
The simplest way I could construct was to mount the motors to an 8' long piece of 2' angle-iron, and then mount that piece of angle iron to your frame through some mainly cut holes that make it possible for the motor mount to visit forward and backward (but definitely not side to side) along the frame.
Make the continuous-duty motor mount plate:
Cut an 8-10' component to 2' angle-iron, depending on the amount of room your motors must mount. Mine only essential about 4', so I managed to get 8' to have numerous room for the increasing bolts. Drill a pin about 1. 5' from each end in the top of this club, this is where the actual mounting bolts will endure the frame.

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